Spa Covers are essential to maintain hot tub heat, keep out debris, and provide a safety layer to prevent children from unsupervised use. When buying a new hot tub cover, you want to choose a cover that will be insulating, custom fitted and have strong locking straps. Today buying a hot tub cover involves a few options you will want to learn about and consider before placing your cover order.
Let's face it: As wonderful as hot tubs feel, they can get pretty gross.1.A lot of germs and pathogens survive in hot tubs.2.The temperature of hot tubs is actually perfect for bacteria to grow.3.Hot tubs are like a big bath where everyone gets a turn to sit in the same hot water.4.Hot tubs are very difficult to keep clean and chlorinated.5.And chlorine gets depleted by things like sweat, sunscreen, and skin or hair products.6.Hot tubs can cause a nasty rash called hot tub folliculitis.7.They carry bacteria which can cause ingrown hairs and small cuts to become infected.8.There's a lot of poop in hot tubs.9.You're supposed to wait two weeks after having diarrhea to go in a hot tub, but most people don't â which exposes others to gastrointestinal bacteria.10.A common hot tub parasite, Crypto, is chlorine-tolerant.11.It's rare, but hot tubs can also transmit Legionnaires' disease, a potentially fatal respiratory disease.12.Bacteria will grow overnight if the hot tub isn't cleaned beforehand.13.Private hot tubs actually tend to be worse than public ones.Bottom line: Keep your hot tub clean!Hot Tub Covers: The âMust Haveâ Hot Tub Accessory
In the past, the early hot tub covers were flat and 2 inches thick. The huge problem with a flat spa cover is that if it is outside, it will suffer the weight of rain and snow, eventually sagging in the middle. Once a hot tub cover is regularly in contact with the water on the inside of the hot tub the constant soaking is going to cause the styrofoam core to absorb water. Your cover becomes almost impossible to remove, even with a cover lifter. Heavy, falling apart spa covers are no fun. You may be replacing yours right now because that cover is waterlogged and weighs a ton. The good news is there have been many design improvements to try and solve the problem of water absorption and collapse. Plus improvements in marine vinyl and UV inhibitors, have increased the life span of the outer vinyl skin of your hot tub cover as well.
These improvements have created more options so ordering a hot tub cover online or even with a dealer will involve making decisions on the thickness and taper of the cover as well as the foam density. Before you order, you might want to get familiar with these options so you can make a good buying decision based on your needs. Your first job is measuring for your hot tub cover!
How To Measure Your Hot Tub for a NEW Cover
Start by choosing the shape of your hot tub below and following the measuring guidelines for each listed dimension. Pay careful attention to your fold and where it folds. If you notice in the example below, its the # 2 dimension that is bisected for the fold.. Click the image to view it larger.
How To Measure Radius Corners for Your Hot Tub or Spa Cover
Do you have radius corners? The easiest way to measure a radius corner is with a carpenters square. This is the technique:
To see how it looks in âreal lifeâ here is an example of an 8 inch radius measured on the spa cover.
The following is some help in choosing from the available options for hot tub covers.
Choosing Thickness, Taper and Foam Density
Today, the best hot tub covers are tapered. In fact, you typically have more than one choice on your spa coverâs taper. In terms of cover price, usually the least expensive is the 4â³ to 2â³ taper. Even the 4 to 2 is a big improvement over flat! Other popular tapers are the 5â³ to 3â³ and a REAL tough guy the 6 to 4. The widest part of the hot tub coverâs taper is at the seam or hinge. This is always in the middle of the tub and gives the hinge something to lean against: itâs opposite on the other side. The outside taper works great for water runoff. Since the middle is essentially crowned, water runs off instead of puddling. The thicker tapers are great for outside hot tubs that may be subject to snow loads. The really good spa covers reinforce their high stress areas with a galvanized C channel for extra stability. Be sure the one you order has this important reinforcement.
Each of the spa cover tapers above have foam density options too. Foam density is selected by pound of density. The weight bearing aspects of the cover will change with higher foam densities. So does the R factor and does the weight of the spa cover. The most common foam density choices are 1lb, 1.5lb and 2lb. The 1lb options is often your standard choice. The 1.5 foam density will notch up your options and price. Price increases with foam density options. Is foam density worth the extra money when buying a spa cover? It depends on your family, your lifestyle and where you live. If you experience bitter winters? It is definitely worth the extra money for the extra strength and R factor. If you live in warmer climates, you can probably get by with the 1 lb density on a 5 to three inch taper. The 1.5 density is extra insurance.
Protecting the Styrofoam: How Much Do You Need?
The foam insert in a hot tub cover is subject to much abuse. It is constantly bathed in steam laden with chemicals, varying pH levels and is very subject to absorbing water. Wrapping the core with plastic wrap has been the answer to this old problem. SpaCover manufacturers use clear plastic wraps to protect the styrofoam. This wrap should be heat sealed to be effective. Some manufacturers offer the option of a double wrapped core. This is double protection, and worth the extra bucks. Be sure that this wrap is at least 6 Mil thick!
Look for Quality Marine Vinyl and Colors
Most manufacturers do not allow a choice of the grade of marine vinyl. They choose their wares and colors and go from there. All marine vinyl is not created equal however and you should look for covers made with marine vinyl in the 30 oz category. UV inhibitors should also be a component of the vinyl from the cover maker you choose. Different vinyl companies will offer slightly different color choices. To the right youâll see a pallet from one particular vinyl company. As far as spa cover vinyl colors go, there are at least 12 different colors available, enough choices for any designer pallet!
Other Materials
Yes.. there are other choices for the skin of your foam cover. A few manufacturers are offering âSunbrellaâ brand marine canvas. Sunbrella is a popular fabric used in outdoor furniture. It has a better, longer wear rating than vinyl. If sun will be beating down on your cover, you might want to consider this option. Even though the Sunbrella fabrics come in a plethora of colors, manufacturers who offer it, only offer a few color choices.
Measuring The âFlapsâ or âSkirtâ
The part that hangs down from the cover over your hot tub flange is called a flap or a skirt. These should fit to the bottom of your hot tub flange. Make sure you take note of measuring instructions for the flaps. Usually up to 6 inch is standard, over 6 inches will incur an additional charge.
Sewing and Stitching The Hot Tub Cover
Sewing and Stitching is not equal from cover maker to cover maker and most do not offer options. Itâs important that you take note that not all companies sew the same way! Since the stitch is what keeps the hot tub cover together, you want to know that your hot tub cover is well sewn. Donât buy a hot tub cover that is NOT triple stitched for strength in all of high stress areas: seam, handles, and locking straps.
Where Do You Want Your Locking Straps?
The locking straps should not be an âoptionâ They should be standard equipment. Most manufacturers will have a standard location for them but can be flexible where they are located. It will probably be impossible to match up existing strap locations exactly. But hardware is always included with the cover, and the receivers for the straps are very easy to install. Here are potential choices for strap location.
Cover Lifters: Easy Help with Your Hot Tub Cover
Youâve got one right? If you donât, and itâs because you didnât want to spend the money know that the price has come down on basic cover lifters. You can get them for 99 bucks now. Some of the economy models however do not work with every shape hot tub. If you have a rectangular hot tub youâre probably safe with a 99 dollar one. If you want more bells and whistles they certainly exist. There are piston assisted cover lifters, sliders, folders, and cover lifters that can actually stow your cover. Popular brands include Covermate, Cover Valet, Cover Rockit, and the Cover Caddy. They definitely make life easier and protect the cover itself from the stress of dragging, flopping it open and dropping it.
Does Your Hot Tub Have a Waterfall or Speakers?
If you have a raised waterfall or popup speakers on your hot tub, there will be additional charges to accommodate them, and they must be accommodated. If you donât include them on your spa cover order, your cover will not fit, so it is essential they are noted on the spa cover order.
A Word About Shipping and Receiving Your Spa Cover
Listen up because this is IMPORTANT! Shipping you your spa cover is a very significant cost of your cover order. Even if freight is âFREEâ It isnât free to the manufacturer. Theyâve merely covered the cost when pricing the cover, sometimes at a loss of actual shipping charges. What you need to keep in mind is that when the trucking company receives the spa cover and pick it up, they sign that there is no damage. This means that IF your cover has visible damage when it is received, the trucking company is the responsible party. If there is any damage to the box or the cover within you MUST refuse the shipment. It is the only way the manufacturer can get reimbursement for the damage. Because of this, it is very important you are available to receive your spa cover yourself and inspect it immediately for damage. Spa covers are delivered by common carrier. They are too big for UPS or FedEx. Donât take a chance of having the trucking company deliver without your presence. The manufacturer cannot accept claims for damage for which they are not responsible!
Investment in a New Hot Tub Cover Will Pay Off
Getting a new hot tub cover will make your life a lot easier. Youâll save money on electricity and perhaps will use your hot tub even more. A heavy cover is no fun to deal with. Considering that many folks use their hot tubs for hydro therapy and rehabilitation, the last thing you want to have to do is wrestle with your hot tub cover. Youâll get a lot more benefits from your hot tub if you actually use it instead of thinking that you just donât want to go out and take the cover off!
Yes, a good hot tub cover is an investment. Youâll be spending between 250 (bare bones) and perhaps 400.00 for your cover. But nothing rejuvenates a hot tub more than a new spa cover in one of 14 colors! With the changes in design and advance planning of available cover options, plus understanding and selecting the right options for your needs, youâll find that the new advances in spa covers will pay off and last longer under the same conditions. Warranties for spa covers are now in the neighborhood of 5 years. That speaks loudly to the change in quality. As always, cover abuse, will reduce the life of your hot tub cover. They are not designed to bear the weight of humans, or dogs, or horses, or llamas and the warranty does not extend to problems created by overweight conditions of snow load. Remember, warranties are for defects in materials or workmanship, not for a German Shepard chasing a cat across your spa cover.
Where To Buy a Great Spa Cover?
There is really not any one place, there is not just one spa cover manufacturer that makes a quality hot tub cover. As you search, just keep in mind what you learned about the options and other aspects of ordering. You can also check with HydroPro Sales Inc who will help you find the right cover manufacturer that builds custom covers with the above criteria. They represent a number of manufacturers and make sure you get the best quality and the best shipping rate for your spa cover. Even though many online companies say âfree shippingâ the shipping cost is always added into the price and is a considerable portion of the cover cost. The folks at HydroPro make sure you are A) getting a cover from a good quality company and B) that you are getting it with the best freight rate for your area. They mainly perform this service for hot tub dealers, but they will help individuals as well. Visit them at HydroProSales.com.
Want more info? Just fill out our form here and weâll get back to you with answers!
Editor's Note: This is the first entry of a two-part series. The second part will appear online and in AQUA Magazine in May.
Your pool pump is overheating, and you want to know why it's happening and how to fix it. This two-part story is about what causes pool pumps to run too hot, what you can expect moving forward if you suspect your pump is overheating and some ways to remedy the problem.
Pool pumps use a lot of power, and as a result, they must dissipate large amounts of heat as part of normal operation. Combine that with the fact that most pool pumps operate in direct sunlight during the hottest part of the year, and you have the potential for an overheated motor. Most electric motors have a thermal disconnect designed to cut the power if the pump overheats, which should prevent the pump from catching on fire...usually. Clearly, it happens (as evidenced by the photo on this page) as there is more than enough power, and friction, in a pump to catch fire.
A pool pump can overheat in two ways: because of an electrical problem or friction. While electrically related failures are by far the most common cause for pump overheating, as we will discuss at length, there is also the potential for a friction fire to develop if a pump is starved for water. This is the case for the burnt pump casing that you see in the photo â this pump was operated with no water for an extended period of time.
The friction from the impeller spinning was enough to melt and ultimately ignite the pump. While uncommon, this is one of the reasons why proper care and maintenance for your pool is important. Even a closed valve that should be open can be enough to cause a pool pump to catch on fire â although this is a rare problem in comparison to electrical failures in pool pumps. By far, the largest cause of your pool pump being too hot is a degenerative process where heat and age cause the pump to draw too much current.
How Hot Is Too Hot?
All electric motors run hot and pool pumps are no different. But how hot is too hot for a pool pump? The first test is simply whether you can touch the motor or not.
Under normal operating conditions, the motor end of the pump is hot enough that you can barely touch it â but not searing hot. If you check your pool pump motor and find it is far too hot to be able to touch with your hand, that's not good. You should be able to place your hand on the motor for at least a few seconds without getting burned. If your pump is so hot that you cannot even rest your hand on top of the motor, it may be a sign that something internal on the pump is failing.
RELATED: Should You Fix a Broken Pump or Replace It?
Once a heat-related failure is experienced, a downward spiral effect has started that will most likely result in the pump failing completely. The pump usually won't just turn off. Before a pump will turn itself off (thermally disconnect), the problem will need to be fairly severe. It is not uncommon for pumps with heat damage to run for a few days, up to a year or more, before they finally deteriorate to the point that you will need a new pump.
Why Is My Pool Pump So Hot?
A residential pool pump uses a standard electric motor, which is usually between 1/2 hp up to and including 3 hp. From electrical theory we know that 1 hp is equal to 746 watts of power. Right away it's obvious that this amount of power has the potential to generate a lot of heat. A 100-watt light bulb is far too hot to touch. A large 3-hp pool pump might generate almost 2,240 watts of power, which is more than sufficient to generate extremely large amounts of heat â and this does not even factor in the heat also being generated by friction from the moving parts inside of the pump.
Heat is a byproduct of energy loss. A pool pump is no different than other electric motors in that most of the energy fed into the pump is not converted into useful mechanical energy, but instead lost from the system in the form of heat. Even brand new out of the box this would be normal operation for a pool pump (or any typical electric motor).
However, the problem with most pool pumps that are too hot is that something has gone wrong, which is causing additional heat to be generated. While the pump is designed to dissipate heat through mechanical heat sinks and air-cooling, additional heat generated over and above what the pump is designed for can, and will most likely, cause a pump failure.
There are many reasons why your pump might be generating extra heat; these four are the most common:
Friction. There are multiple moving parts inside of a pool pump. Any moving part will generate heat from friction. Under normal conditions this amount of heat does not pose a problem for pool pumps as they will self regulate their heat. Ambient air is drawn through the motor to help keep it cool, and heavy pieces of metal (heat sinks) are designed to safely absorb heat that builds up.
One of the most common ways pool pumps will generate friction is from corroded bearings inside the pump. The shaft of the motor has bearings, which are designed to prevent wear and tear to moving parts. As these bearings dry out and begin to fail, a large amount of heat will be generated.
Bearings on pool pump motors usually fail when they start to rust. Once the bearings in the pump have begun to rust, it's just a matter of time before you have a pump failure. The telltale sign of rust on your pump bearings is a high-pitched squealing sound. This squealing sound is the sound of the bearings rubbing and generating friction at an extremely high speed.
Where oil once caused the bearings to move with next to no resistance, there is now a great deal of resistance, and heat, being generated. The main cause for this type of pump failure is a lack of simple maintenance. If the pool pump is leaking, whether from the main seal on the underside of the pump or from the pressure side connections, this must be resolved to prevent bearing failure.
Many pool owners do not notice, or simply ignore, small leaks in the equipment room, so it's on you as the service professional to discover these faults and take immediate action.
Lack Of Airflow. In order for most common electric motors to stay cool, air must be drawn into the motor and over the electric windings. This relatively cool air pulls heat from the motor before passing out the backside of the pump. This is why these types of pool pumps should only be installed in areas with sufficient airflow.
If you install a pool pump in a very small closet, or any kind of enclosed space, you will dramatically reduce the service life that you can expect from the pump. The motor will still draw in air but the air inside the closed space will soon be heated from this energy transfer. If the air inside the pump location is too warm, it will no longer be able to effectively cool the motor.
RELATED: How to Read Pump & System Curves
This type of motor failure won't happen immediately, but will instead manifest into a situation each new pump only lasts a handful of years at most. A pool pump should last seven years at a minimum, hopefully much more, before needing service, repairs or replacement. If you are only getting a few years out of each motor, then there may not be enough airflow in the pump location for it to adequately cool itself.
If you are interested in protecting pool equipment as much as possible, the best situation would be to install a sunshade over the equipment pad. Closed-in rooms can work, but can also be a restriction for air unless an active ventilation system is added. A roof shelter over the equipment would be ideal to protect from direct sunlight while providing maximum airflow around the equipment.
Suction-Side Restrictions. Flow restrictions in the plumbing system should be minimized as much as possible. Coming into the suction side of the pump, there should be a straight, unobstructed run at least 10 times the pipe diameter in length.â But as I've discovered, hardly any residential pool pumps are installed this way. Most installers give little thought to the flow dynamics of a pump when installing it. If you see a pool pump with a 90-degree fitting directly in front of the suction side, the pump will need to work harder than a pump with a straight, unobstructed run into it.
These friction losses in the pipe are made worse by turbulence. Slow-moving water flows smoothly and has the minimum amount of friction loss. As water moves faster, and becomes more turbulent, the efficiency of how the water moves through the pipe drops. That's true anywhere in your plumbing system, but nowhere is it more important than where the water enters your pump. You want the water to enter the suction side of the pump with as little turbulence as possible. Having a 90-degree fitting, street elbow, check valve, union or ball valve directly in front of the pump suction will dramatically increase the turbulence of the water, which will result in an efficiency loss for your pump.
Pressure-Side Restrictions. It's also critical to minimize resistance on the pressure side. Taking a large pump with a 2 or 3 hp motor and forcing the flow through a heavy-flow restriction â such as a filter that is too small, or plumbing that is too small â will cause the pump to work harder than it needs to. Picture yourself on a bike riding as fast as you can...if you are riding into a strong headwind, your performance and speed will drastically decline, and force you to use more energy to compensate.
This is similar to what your pump experiences when you have pressure-side flow restrictions. To avoid this problem, be sure to limit back-to-back plumbing fittings, which compound losses, and be sure that the pump is matched well with the other equipment and the demands of the pool.
This concludes Part 1, a discussion of the causes of overheating in pumps. Next month, in Part 2, we will talk about ways of preventing the problem and getting the longest pump life possible.
Comments or thoughts on this article? Please e-mail [email protected].
Why Does Horsepower Matter On A Hot Tub Cover
Steve Goodale is a second-generation swimming pool expert located in Ontario, Canada. You can learn more about Steve, as well as swimming pool construction, maintenance and repair from his website: SwimmingPoolSteve.com.
Steve Goodale is AQUA Contributor of AQUA Magazine.
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So, if you open your hot tub cover and find the hue is anything less than crystal, there are a few reasons that could be happening. To maintain the best environment in a hot tub, many complex elements must be kept in balance: hardness, pH, alkalinity, temperature, etc. If any of these are out of order, your hot tub experience could be unpleasant.
AquaChek 6-in-1 Spa Test StripsSKU: 552244$8.95
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